Alps conditions

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mountain monster 22 Jul 2014
There are a few different threads going on this at the moment but....
What are things like? I know that there has been a lot of rain and that more is due this week. What effect is it having higher up? is there a lot of fresh snow? is it consolidating? is it creating any nasties?
I'm due to go out next weekend and am fairly flexible about where i go. Any news would be helpful.
 jogle03 22 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

I've been out since July 8th and currently we've only really had 5 actual days of good weather. During those days I was up at the Couvercle hut in very warm conditions, yet most of the faces in that region (over 3200M) still had significant amounts of snow on even after two whole days of warming. Some parts of the massif were ok but there has since been more snow this week, mostly above 3000m. Bad weather is looking to continue at least until this weekend.

I think the weather is largely the same throughout the Alps, so it is hard to escape in search of better conditions!
 Mark Haward 22 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Check out the OHM online for route / conditions info.
Rob Stratton 22 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Just got back after two weeks in Chamonix, as weather closed in again. Our first week was terrible. Up to 60 cm of fresh snow! Only managed Cosmiques in poor vis, with every man, guide and his dog. Last week weather improved, and snow settled enough for parties to climb Tacul, but don't know how much is falling just now. Quite a few climbers went over to the Italian side, and found better weather there, from Torino and elsewhere. Helbronner gondola closed in bad weather, so couldn't go straight over. Seems lot of winter snow still around, so glaciers relatively ok still. Chamonix.com does a useful app that gives daily updated forecast. Hope that's helpful. Have a good trip!
 braalyriggit 23 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Just back on Sunday past after a 17day trip, 3rd-20th July, the first week working from the Saas valley, the last week then in the Bernese Oberland. The weather was very mixed the first half, significant amounts of fresh snow and poor visibility most days above 3000m resulting in us ultimately heading south to Punte Brolla for a few days crag climbing instead to wait for an improvement. Last week then as forecasted the weather did improve with high pressure moving in, meaning higher temperatures, clear blue skies and no precipitation. Most routes with a southerly aspect came back into condition with the fresh snow quickly disappearing off rock. The snowpack was consolidating better with each day of freeze/thaw and was in excellent condition early each morning. This spell allowed us get up 4 4000m peaks last week.
The bad news is though the weather was due to break again as we left and indeed the cloud was very low over Geneva when we left on Sunday.
 MG 23 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

If anyone is considering any route on snow above 3500m on the S side of Mont Blanc (the mountain rather than range), wait at least a week. 20-30cm of new snow on an old icy base is not well attached.
 glaramara 23 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

My missus said the jegihorn (3200m) was fine today (snow free), with another thunderstorm 2nite. I'm heading out friday so I won't be shy on how conditions are, although of course I am a mere punter.
 euanw 25 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

I have just had a couple of good weeks in the Arolla and Saas Valleys climbing lots of good routes and peaks including; Ulrischhorn, Panorama on the Jegihorn, the Pigne-Cheilon traverse and the Aiguille de la Tsa. There is plenty of good stuff to do at the moment with a number of the Voie Normale routes on the Saas peaks in good condition. There is a number of photos on the climbnow.co.uk blog and a video on the climbnow facebook page showing the current conditions.

Also worth checking out is the Frostguiding blog and facebook page for updates. There is very useful up to date reports on the Dent Blanche and the peaks above the Moiry Hut.
 woodsy 26 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Currently holed out in solalex refuge.
Heavy rain and low cloud.
forecast dire for more or less the whole of switzerland for next few days.
anyone got a pack of cards?
 Gael Force 26 Jul 2014
In reply to woodsy:

Stunning weather in the Lakes, Scafell drier than I've seen it in years...
 Simon4 26 Jul 2014
In reply to woodsy:

> anyone got a pack of cards?

We finished up playing chess on a tablet. 2 games all, decider never took place.

We're in Chamonix right now, topped out on the Frendo Spur yesterday morning in glorious sunshine after setting off Sunday afternoon. The route was in perfect condition, we climbed all the rock section in rock shoes (but had to delicately climb stepped out snow patches on a couple of occasions) and the exit snow slopes were in perfect condition early morning. Such an amazing experience.

We almost had the entire route to ourselves, but Ally Swinton blasted past us just below the cornice having soloed the whole route from the first lift. What a beast!

The rain is back with a vengeance so today looks to be another enforced rest day. It's currently looking good for Thursday so we're going to head up to a hut tomorrow evening I think.

Hope everyone's having fun, despite the weather!
 James FR 29 Jul 2014
In reply to highaltitudebarista:
Good timing! Thursday and Friday are both forecast to be good, before more bad weather at the weekend.

Did you bivvy on the route?

Edit: just read your logbook, I have the answer.
Post edited at 09:25
 Tim Sparrow 31 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Returned early from a 2 week trip due to persistent rain / clag / cloud- managed 2 days out from Saas in 6 days, both day trips from the valley (Mittaghorn - Egginer traverse and Hohlaubgrat on Allalinhorn). Finally gave up on Sunday having camped near the Furka when the supposed good weather revealed itself as cloud base nearly down to Andermatt.
One look at the forecast in the tourist office for the following week and we abandoned ship!
Never even got to wear my shorts.
 Simon4 31 Jul 2014
In reply to Tim Sparrow:

It was a bit disconcerting looking at the webcams that showed the snow seeming to be down to Saas Grund!

This is turning into one hell of a miserable "Summer" - global warming my a*****.
 nr 31 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

We cut short a planned trip last week due to snow/weather. Making our way from Klein Matterhorn to the Ayas hut we were hit by an avalanche as we made our way past Roccia Nera. Nobody injured, but it was a bit of a shock. We stopped over at the Ayas hut, and went back to Klein Matterhorn next day, rather than attempt the traverse of Pollux & Castor and the trek down to the Quintino Sella hut. I'm sure it was possible, but I don't think it would have been a whole lot of fun.
 euanw 31 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

I visited the Almageller Hut on Tuesday. The walk in wasn't very pleasant. However, the weather was good enough on Wednesday to allow us to do a summit. We climbed Mittelruck from the Sonnigpass. In the conditions we found it in the ridge was Scottish grade II with a UIAA rock step of II+. There are some photos on the climbnow.co.uk blog and facebook page.
aultguish 31 Jul 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

We're sat here with our finger hovering over the book now button for the Chunnel on saturday morning for a week in Zermatt..........decisions decisions
 James FR 31 Jul 2014
In reply to aultguish:

The long range forecast isn't looking too bad... More snow to come this weekend though.
 Patrik 01 Aug 2014
Would anyone have any information on conditions in Ecrins please?

Thanks,

Patrik
 Simon4 01 Aug 2014
In reply to Patrik:

How good is your skiing?
 alastairbegley 01 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Climbed the Flèche Rousse yesterday, the rock was dry but the snow wasn't frozen which made for very hard going and a long day in knee deep wet snow. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/flche-rousse-aiguille-da...
 MG 01 Aug 2014
In reply to alastairbegley:

Looks fun - nice blog report.
 Patrik 01 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

skiing or water-skiing?
 Brass Nipples 01 Aug 2014
In reply to alastairbegley:


Enjoyed that, good shot climbing across the ice chock stone in the crevasse.
 Simon4 01 Aug 2014
In reply to alastairbegley:

Great description and fantastic photographs. I feel your pain at the deep snow.

Sounds like a real "character-building" outing, well done.
 goatee 01 Aug 2014
In reply to alastairbegley:

A great report and a great blog.
 alps_p 02 Aug 2014
In reply to alastairbegley:

very nice write-up and it sounds like a fantastic day out you had.
BTW are you unroped in this shot? http://static.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/b/assets/uploads/2014/08/21-D...
 JohnnyW 03 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

In a word, pish! Sat in tent listening to the rain, hung over after abother day gear shopping and boozing. The biggest problem is that there has not been two good days together , so you cannot get far, there is fresh snow over everything, nothing is freezing , and what routes you can get on are really busy. Most of our mates have bailed out today, but the meteorological promise of jam tomorrow has kept us hanging on
 Simon4 03 Aug 2014
In reply to JohnnyW:

> ... the meteorological promise of jam tomorrow has kept us hanging on

If you are in Chamonix, that is unusual - jam tomorrow. Normally it is jam "en deux ou trois jours, beau temp et chaud", i.e. "confiture a bientôt", not "confiture demain".

The Chamonix bars and campsites must be getting seriously desperate if Chamonix meteo are promising it for tomorrow, that is so easily disproved, even the wildly over-optimistic British alpinists can remember that long.
Post edited at 11:35
 JohnnyW 03 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

You correct me well, it is indeed 'confiture apres deux ou trois jours', as well as 'confiance 2/5' as a wee get-out clause.

And still we wait........
 Simon4 03 Aug 2014
In reply to JohnnyW:
It is rather like the line the line in Bedazzled :

"What's it like in hell?"

"Dreadful - it five minutes to opening time"

"That doesn't sound too hellish, in 5 minutes you can have a drink"

"No, you don't understand. It is always 5 minutes to opening time in hell"

Have fun when your "grand beau" arrives - due in 2 or 3 days I believe.

(love the "confiance 2/5 = "we haven't got a f****** clue! But we will tell you what you want to hear anyway")
Post edited at 15:50
 islandlynx 04 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Does anyone know of any good blogs for conditions in the monte rosa massif?
 Shapeshifter 05 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Can anybody advise on conditions at present for the Gouter route on Mont Blanc. I've got a trip planned for early September, but if it seems likely the route will close early this season, I might make other plans?

Thanks

Chubbs
(re-posted from the Chamonix thread)
 alastairbegley 07 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

took a chance yesterday and headed up the North Ridge of the Weissmiess, it was in great condition and is an absolutely fantastic climb. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/north-ridge-weissmies/
graham F 07 Aug 2014
In reply to chubbs2: The Gouter route is in good condition. It's one route that is much better with snow (First-hand reports from Monday and Wednesday) Why would it "close" early?
We were up to try the Innominata Ridge this morning with a keen 01:30 start from the Eccles bivvy. Unfortunately it's not been getting cold enough overnight and we found the snow unfrozen and slow going so we decided to back off just shy of Col Eccles. Word on the street is there's a cold front coming next week which might firm things up.
 Brass Nipples 07 Aug 2014
In reply to alastairbegley:

> took a chance yesterday and headed up the North Ridge of the Weissmiess, it was in great condition and is an absolutely fantastic climb. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/north-ridge-weissmies/

Looks like a fine morning out.
 Phil Murray 07 Aug 2014
In reply to graham F:

Gouter route was closed last August, it was too dangerous to go to the Gouter hut. The guides place in Cham said it was closed, due to very high risk of stonefall.

Bit of a shame seeing as the shiny new hut up there was open and all.
graham F 08 Aug 2014
In reply to Phil Murray:

Yes, I realise that. It was closed because it was dry with a high stonefall risk. My point is that for once this year there's still plenty of snow in the couloir.
 Simon4 08 Aug 2014
In reply to highaltitudebarista:

Impressive place the Eccles bivies aren't they? Did you see our hut book entry?

The Innominata Ridge always looks like a fine, but serious undertaking to me, a full-on approach up the Italian side of MB, in very impressive scenery. How were you planning to descend?
 Shapeshifter 08 Aug 2014
In reply to graham F:

Thanks that's good to know. When I say 'closed', I just got the impression it doesn't get done much past September, presumably because of excess snow build up on it and more wintry type conditions.
In reply to Simon4: It is amazing place to stay for sure! We stopped in the older, lower hut which I don't think had a hut book. We had a brief stop in new, upper hut on the way down but didn't read the book unfortunately. Would definitely stop in the upper hut next time if possible as there was some tricky mixed climbing between them.

The plan was the decend via the Gouter route back down to Chamonix, but we were too far behind schedule by Col Eccles to make it down before the forecasted bad weather in the afternoon. Will definitely give it another go some time, the South side of Mont Blanc is a wild and terrifying place. I loved it! =o)

Hot and sunny in Chamonix today, we went rock climbing up at Brevant this afternoon. Stormy tomorrow. =o(
 Simon4 08 Aug 2014
 jon 08 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Video?
In reply to Simon4: There's about the same amount of snow round the hut right now! Looks like some spicy times! =o)
 Simon4 08 Aug 2014
In reply to highaltitudebarista:

Amazing, it was at the end of June after a very snowy Winter/Spring. That it should still be like that in August is extraordinary.

Liked your blog account of going up the Nadelhorn, BTW.
 jon 08 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

What video?
 MG 08 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Have you got a video?
 jon 08 Aug 2014
In reply to MG:
He must have. He mentioned it just up there.
He's hiding now.
Post edited at 21:55
 Simon4 09 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

See if you can see these boys :

vimeo.com/102994696
 pneame 09 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Choice. Looks like Scotland
 Simon4 09 Aug 2014
In reply to pneame:

Well you can't see much in this, so that figures :

vimeo.com/102994698


Scotland at 3800m though.
 jon 09 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Excellent - confirms my decision to move to Provence was the right one! Had you got any vis down? You could get into lots of trouble going down there without... As I said before, I'd have stayed in the hut, hungry or not!
 pneame 09 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

> Scotland at 3800m though.

It does have the look and feel, but i think I'd have been focussing on my whimpering style, thinking of all the c#$p above me and, as Jon says, the c#$p below me.
I'd have also possibly managed some high quality moaning as well


 pneame 09 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

That's better
 glaramara 09 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Did the Dom yesterday in good condition via the Festigrat, if that is helpful. There are the odd 4000er which is getting done. We saw people on the Nadelhorn as well.
 Simon4 09 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

> Had you got any vis down? You could get into lots of trouble going down there without... As I said before, I'd have stayed in the hut, hungry or not!

No vis, but we did know the descent, having reccied the approach to the Eccles bivouacs sometime before, to get familiarity and also aclimitisation for another trip. We knew that once we had done the descending traverse down to the col, a bit of further descent should put some cliffs on our right, facing down. As long as we kept the cliffs to our right, we were descending the Brouillard glacier in the correct position (Wayne also had a GPS track from the bivi hut to the Monzino).
 jon 09 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

> We knew that once we had done the descending traverse down to the col, a bit of further descent should put some cliffs on our right, facing down. As long as we kept the cliffs to our right, we were descending the Brouillard glacier in the correct position

On your RIGHT? Aren't you going basically down the Brouillard Glacier's true L bank? Which would put cliffs on your L...? At one point then you have to find the way out L through those cliffs? I'm speaking from only ever having gone UP that way once. My memory is that from Monzino you walk up behind the hut over rocky/grassy terrain keeping L of Aig Croux and Punta Innominata to cross over a ridge and find a way down onto the glacier which you follow keeping right as much as possible, though inevitably being drawn into the middle to pass crevasses, to get to the col de Freney and then on to the hut...
 Simon4 09 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

Sorry, I meant Left!!!
 jon 09 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Good job I was here then!
 JohnnyW 09 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Did the Domes de Miage traverse yesterday, in excellent conditions. Firm snow, no wind. Great route, but jeepers, that new path is a grind to get to the Conscrits!
 jon 09 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Word has it from a Saas guide today that they are considering not guiding the Wiessmies via the normal route from Hohsaas until a large serac which threatens the route has collapsed. Perhaps someone - Graham? - can confirm that? If so it'd mean that the Almergellerhütte is going to get busier than ever.
 AndyG71 09 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Not seeing much mention of the Bernese Oberland in this thread. Thinking of heading there next weekend. Anyone got anything to share on conditions on Fiescherhorns, Gross Grunhorn and Finsteraarhorn ?
graham F 10 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

There had been a big collapse across the track last week. I don't know about the guides not guiding it though.
 jon 10 Aug 2014
In reply to graham F:
Hilary and her trekking clients did the Allalinhorn yesterday with a guide from Saas Fee. It was him that told her. I've often thought that route is an accident waiting to happen - much more so than the Tacul, for instance. Do you know if there have been any accidents on it due to serac fall?
Post edited at 21:26
 jdgaventa 10 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

I was hoping to do the Weissmies traverse next week (plus Portjengrat and a few other routes) so would be interested in hearing any updates on the serac situation on the normal descent.

A bit of googling led me to this article on the Swiss alpine club site, which suggests an alternative way up / down could be possible. http://www.sac-cas.ch/news/aktuell-detail.html?tx_ttnews[tt_news]=6141176

The debris from the original serac collapse looks quite large...
 sbc_10 10 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

Same for me as with jdgaventa. I had the traverse as a possible route maybe in a week to ten days time. Any updates would be greatly appreciated.

SBC.
 MG 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Lovely. Very dedicated of Wayne to keep filming.
 jon 11 Aug 2014
 MG 11 Aug 2014
In reply to sbc_10:

The AC guidebook suggests the right-hand skyline in jon's photo is another possible route that comes down to the cable-car eventually. This would avoid the glacier altogether and may be worth considering. I think I remember a photo in the Almageller hut which showed a variant of this that started/finished at the hut too. No first-hand information of either though.
 sbc_10 11 Aug 2014
In reply to MG:

Thanks MG, I'm just about to set off now, car is sort of packed.
If I can report anything back when I'm out there I will post on this thread.
Cheers.
 jon 11 Aug 2014
In reply to sbc_10:
But you know you can always do an aller-retour Almagellerhütte and not have to go down the voie normale. True it's not traversing the mountain which is a shame. If you really wanted to traverse it you could always do the brilliant N ridge and go down the S past Almageller though admittedly the N is a lot harder. Anyway, the thing might have fallen down by the time you get there. Have a good trip.
Post edited at 10:51
 Jaylaz 11 Aug 2014
In reply to jon:

What were the snow conditions like and which route up? Was the descent ok? I'm in Saas Grund now on a family holiday but my friend is keen to climb the Allalinhorn as his first alpine route. I've been up from the Britannia before and this is the way I would prefer to go with a descent down via the ski lifts to the Alpin Express or further to Felskinn. Raining right now but maybe having a trek to the Britannia this afternoon.
 jon 11 Aug 2014
In reply to Jaylaz:

Hilary tells me that, as usual, there was a good track on both the Holaubgrat and the normal routes.
 alastairbegley 12 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Made the most of a weather window today and climbed the north face of the Tour Ronde - http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/tour-ronde-north-face/
 Kean 19 Aug 2014
In reply to alastairbegley:

Hi...has anyone been up high around Dente Blanche/Nadelhorn in the last few days? Any updates on conditions appreciated.

Ta
 alasdair19 19 Aug 2014
In reply to kean:

very snowy according to andy teasdale who climbed the s ridge yesterday fun though going on what he posts on fb.
 Kean 19 Aug 2014
In reply to alasdair19:

Cheers!
 James Thacker 19 Aug 2014
In reply to kean: I was on the Nadelhorn today, normal route in good condition.

 Misha 19 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:
There was a two day window Sun/Mon but now back to normal service with snow overnight into today and a bit Scottish walking back from the Cosmiques hut to the lift this morning. No one else at the Cosmiques went to do anything as far as we could tell. Next weather window later this week... Some people were going up/down the Tacul face on Sun/Mon. The track was fairly direct up the left hand side, so steep but avoiding most of the seracs. There was an impressive serac fall on the left hand side of the Triangle with snow dust reaching the descent from the Pointes Lachenal.
 Null 20 Aug 2014
In reply to kean:

Hi guys.

Just a note to say that the Dolomite climbing season so far (to 20 August 2014) has been what my countrymen would call "total pish" and the outlook is much the same over the coming weekend. I have just descended today from the Brenta Dolomites after three days wandering around in cold drizzly mist.

The locals are all banking on it being nice in the autumn (mid September and October), just because they think it surely has to end at some point. I hope that too ...
 JohnnyW 20 Aug 2014
In reply to Erstwhile:

The Brenta was my get-out-of jail card a while back, when we gave up on Saas and went to Chamonix.....'til I heard it wasn't any better

Still, we did get some routes done in Zinal and Contamines in the third week, so can't complain

The Boccette had eluded me for years........
 Kean 20 Aug 2014
In reply to James Thacker:

Hi James,

> I was on the Nadelhorn today, normal route in good condition.

Nice one...did the lenzspitze traverse look in condition? Was it being done?
Cheers
 NeilOMalley 24 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Just got back from a week in Chamonix. Started good and just got better and better with snow melting rapidly. Didn't really have any problems.
 Misha 25 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:
The weather has closed in again in Chamonix... Drizzle this morning and looking grey. The Chamoniarde reports people were looking at mixed routes on the Grandes Jorasses during the weather window over the last couple of days! Any high up rock routes which don't get loads of sun are best avoided. We tried the Cordier Pillar on Saturday and that had a lot of snow from about half height, some pitches would have been easier with winter gear!
 euanw 25 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:
I have just had a great few days climbing peaks in the Mont Blanc Massif such as Tour Ronde, Petite Aiguille Verte and Pointe sup des Amethystes. This morning we traversed the Aiguille Crochues in light snow. Lots of photos and conditions details on the climbnow.co.uk blog and facebook page.

Paul had a great weekend in Les Ecrins on the Aiguille Dibona. There is lots of dry rock peaks in the Soreiller bowl to climb at the moment. Last year I climbed routes on the Pointe de Burlan and Aiguille Centrale de Soreiller which were both brilliant.
Post edited at 17:40
 chris bedford 25 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

Triftjigrat on the Breithorn was in stellar nick on 25th August....
http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/553928/en/breithorn-w-triftjigrat
 James FR 26 Aug 2014
In reply to mountain monster:

The Promontoire hut blog has a great photo of the Zsigmondy couloir on the Meije - see 24th August entry: http://www.refugedupromontoire.com/en-direct/

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