UKH

Not especially seasonal, but is there any real preference in ice screws between BD, Petzl and Grivel?

In reply to wbo:

Most of my screws are the BD Express but I also have a couple of the Grivel screws with attached slings which I really like as you don't need to carry as many karabiners and QD's. If I was starting from scratch I think I would be buying the latter but they are not to everyones taste.

In reply to wbo:

DMM revolutions all the way!

In reply to wbo:

A lot of this type of stuff is down to personal preference, so please take the following with a pinch of salt.

I've used a whole range of screws and own BD Turbos, Grivel 360s and DMMs. I would put Petzl screws a very distant third after BD and Grivel, if not fourth as DMM screws are surprisingly good with an excellent ergonomic handle design. They bite well too; don't overlook them.

I briefly used a Cassin Radion screw last season. A bit bulky, took a bit of getting used to, but it worked well. But would I buy one in preference to anything else? No.

HTH.

In reply to wbo:

I've got all DB Express screws, which are great, but I think the new Petzl Laser Speed might well turn out to be better. Haven't seen any long term reviews yet though.


http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/verticality/anchors/ice-protection/laser-so...

In reply to Webster:

Good god no! A pretty looking screw but god awful in practice.

BD Express screws I find are still the quickest to bite, fastest to place and easiest to rack.

In reply to GrendeI:

you cant have had much practice with them then!

they're pretty awsome in my book, and iv also used BD express but wouldnt swap them for any other screw. also by far the best value (typically 3 for £100 so £33 each is significantly cheaper than the £50-60 you will pay for other brands)

In reply to wbo:

I've got a large selection of screws- BD's, old Petzl Laser, DMM revolution and Grivel Speedys (with the sling built in).


For Scotland I'd use my BDs. This would be based on the large rack I'd take in Scotland which might need a selection of extenders whether using an ice screw or nut, warthog, whatever.

Those two conditions don't hold for Water Ice climbing, where Grivel speedys are my go to screw. It's the convinience, speed, and the lower likelihood of dropping the screw that win for me. If starting today, for WI routes, I'd build a complete rack of them.

In terms of choice of screw it's either BD turbo express, or Grivel Speedy, though I really like the look of the new Petzl laser as an option to the BD, particularly as it'll work with the Lim'Ice sharpener. Never placed one though.

The old Petzl laser was a bit of let down (probably the cutting angles) and the DMMs haven't ever given stellar performances either- neither feel as good the other two screws when winding. I find the hanger on the DMM quite good- though have had mixed reports from friends (particularly BD users who miss their little handle).

In reply to Webster:

If you can find 'DMM revolution for sale- I think Joe Browns have a few knocking about, but considering they haven't been manufactured for... yonks and yonks there can't be too many stockists.