In reply to Robert Durran:
> Climbing Everest with bottled oxygen is no more cheating than climbing it with food or with clothing.
Not quite. At least not yet. In the wider sense it's all irrelevant, but in the sense of the rules of the game/sport/lifestyle/activity, there are shifting standards.
Everest has been done around 200 times without bottled O2 so it can certainly be done, and not just by a genetic elite.
However nobody has climbed Everest without clothing, without eating/drinking, without crampons etc. So removing those things is currently an unrealistic standard to aim for.
Removing bottled O2 is not - it has proven to be unnecessary hundreds of times, and given the ingrained tenets of alpinism such as simplicity, minimalism, elegance, nature, rules of 'fairness' etc it has no place in any mountaineering ascent of note.
The greater risk to Sherpa life inherent in its current way of use only reinforces how unacceptable it is.
I think within the context of alpinism, bottled oxygen is cheating. Within the context of its current use on Everest, it is immoral.