UKH

As the title states, what are people advice on the best rock boot rubber?

Cheers in advance,
Joel

In reply to Joel Perkin:

If there is no consensus among pro climbers, I doubt you'll find one here...

In reply to Joel Perkin:

Boot fit is far more important than slight nuanced differences in rubber compound

In reply to Joel Perkin:

Different rubbers have different characteristics at different temperatures, think about that.

In reply to Joel Perkin:

I was convinced some rubbers were better than others as my friends who stood on far smaller stuff than I did used different boots. Now I realise they just knew how to use their feet better. Think with 'good' shoes the difference is very marginal. Evolve traxx super grippy, stealth c4 stiff and onyx between the two. Haven't a clue about the rest

In reply to mhawk:
The less high end boreal and evolve rubber I've found is not as good, I much prefer onyx / stealth over them. The vibram stuff is comparable to 5:10 rubber but not as hard wearing IMO.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

in my limited experience i prefered the stealth to the ones on my current evolvs

In reply to Joel Perkin:

It really depends what you want from the rubber, the best rubber is said to MI6 rubber from 5.10 but more durable rubber tends to be less sticky, Im not sure of an example of durable rubber but my evolvs lasted quite a long time

Alex

In reply to Joel Perkin:

The one having the most fun

In reply to Joel Perkin:

Cheers guys, reason I ask is thinking of getting my pair of super comfortable 'beginners' shoes being resoled with different rubber to see if it made any difference. I upgraded to some 5.10's but they just didn't perform like my £50 pair of la sportivas!

Cheers.

In reply to Joel Perkin:

Durex don't make boot rubber... but if they did...

In reply to Joel Perkin:

Andy Kirkpatrick says this on his page about how to speed up your multipitching:

"If you’re climbing way below your limit then ditch the rock boots and go for sticky approach shoes in which you can also run. These will allow you to keep you feet fresh over a full day. Most approach shoes are pretty shoddy to climb in so you’ll probably be best off buying a good pair of running shoes and get them resoled with a dotted Stealth C4 sole (around £22), which is by far the best stuff you can get on the soles of your shoes."

In reply to Conor1:

"Most approach shoes are pretty shoddy to climb in, so you'll probably be best off buying a good pair of running shoes and getting them resoled with dotted Stealth C4 sole"

Surely approach shoes that have been designed for climbing would be ten times better then a pair of running shoes, unless you wear minimalist running shoes.

The quote that you have used does not really answer the OP, as it was spoke by a man regarding speeding up multipitch routes.

In reply to Joel Perkin:

I have 2 pairs of LS katana's of which one is resoled with C4 rubber. The latter sticks better and seems more durable than the vibram rubber...

I also resoled my LS Mythos with Onyx rubber, which feels very sticky and has held up to all sorts of abuse for a while now.

In reply to Joel Perkin:

Just finally got round to gettin an old pair of evolves resoled. the original ecotrax was good and grippy but wore through in no time...went for stealth c4 in the resollling as that is what everyone seams to recomend. still wearing them in again but first impressions are that it is much stiffer and thicker than the original rubber, which should mean it lasts longer, but on the downside my boots have lost their original sensitivity... its always a trade off between longevity, sensitivity and grip...

In reply to Joel Perkin:
This is my vote on which is the best rubber based purely on performance on crappy little footholds either outdoors or on my board at home, surely this is the only criteria that counts?

1. stealth hf
2. vibram xs edge
3. stealth c4
4. vibram xs grip
5. stealth onyx
6. evolve trax
7. boreal fs quattro
8. evolve eco trax