Northern Cairngorms conditions

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 betathief 07 Apr 2014
Hi,

I have transport booked for this weekend (Fri-Sun), will be staying with a friend in Aberdeen and driving in each day. Has anyone got any updates on conditions in Sneachda? Lochain? will be climbing grade 3 or lower and hoping for one last chance this winter to improve experience and get something done.

If there is elsewhere that is def in condition and is a reasonable drive then that will be considered too.

Thanks,

Ant
 Blackmud 07 Apr 2014
In reply to the ant hill mob:

Haven't been up there in a week or two but if there is any snow left in gullies the key will be temps. If it's warm you'll likely be swimming up slush and loose rubbish, but some cold temps could give you a nice choice of gully lines.
OP betathief 07 Apr 2014
In reply to Blackmud:

Yeah, doesn't look like it. unfortunately, the forecast is 4-5, looks like it could be a walking trip rather than climbing.


 Ron Walker 07 Apr 2014
In reply to the ant hill mob:

Most of the Grade 1's and a few of the Grade 2's gullies should be fine once they re-freeze and will be very alpine-like, assuming a good freeze.
Be quick, start early and finish early avoiding sun warmed exit routes. Alternatively you could start late, if it's forecast to be cold at night and remember your headtorch!
The main buttresses are now bare though many of the starts are still well banked up.
You'll need to take extra care with the bergschrunds/crevasses at the start of any winter or summer approach routes.
There will likely be old sections of detached snow or ice, unfrozen loose rock on any thin sections, on and above you and sagging cornices.
If it snows later this week some of these hazards will be hidden so it helps if you are very familiar with the terrain, the buildup and the snow pack history.
Good fun and realistic alpine training if you know what you are doing, dodgy if you don't - watch out for the skiers!
 Ron Walker 08 Apr 2014
In reply to the ant hill mob:

Conditions and weather surprisingly good today.
See https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.473126042787948.1073741856.124310...

Cheers Ron
OP betathief 08 Apr 2014
In reply to Ron Walker:

Thanks for the reply Ron, I will keep an eye on your Talisman page and hope for a similarly good day or two this weekend.

Thanks again,

Ant

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