UKH

Need some advice, I'm off to the alps this summer and was thinking about getting another pair of boots. I already have a pair of phantom guides for winter ice/mixed but was thinking about getting a more summer alpine orientated boot that climbs rock better but also can climb reasonably hard winter stuff (up to scottish III) so around a B1/2. Something ideal for things like the frendo, VS rock and scottish III ice!

I originally wanted the Scarpa Rebel Carbon but they don't make it anymore! However the newer rebel pro I feel is too much like my current boots as its a B3 and is labelled as an ice/mixed boot so unsure about its rock climbing abilities. Other options are the new rebel lite which looks ideal for rock but I'm unsure about its stiffness for ice given what it says on scarpa's website about it. And then there's the sportiva trango S which is similar.

I've tried them all on and they fit great, but unsure which would be best so would like some advice! Or do I stick with my old boots and get a proper bivi bag!

In reply to joe.91:

Thought about the chramoz? I've been up VS outside in them and 6b inside. They climb quite well I thought, for Scottish winter they do the job but are quite cold on belays!

As for the phantom guides they'll climb well enough, I've been up VS I think (definitely hs) and 6c, as for winter they need no explaining. The issue would be the warmth of them.
Depends what you're prepared to sacrifice I suppose.

Have you had a look at the rebel lite? They look fantastic for Alpine stuff, with a precise toe box and c-2 crampon compatible.

Maybe not worth ruling the rebel pro out though, as I found it quite flexible for a B3 boot.

In reply to Cameron94:

I have thought about the charmoz but been looking at others as there lighter!

I have looked at the rebel lite (as I said in the previous post…) but unsure about their stiffness. Didn't try the right size on last time but hoping to try it next weekend before I make my mind up. It felt very soft for a B2 as agreed with the blurb on scarpa's website. And I felt the pro version was bang on for a B3, super comfy and light!

In reply to joe.91:

I have the Rebel Lites, having previously had Charmoz for summer (and light winter). They don't seem THAT bendy. Can't imagine they wouldn't cope with Scottish III. Certainly they are perfect for scrambling/easy climbing

Cameron mate, you've climbed VS and 6C in Phantoms?!!?? You're going well.

In reply to BnB:

Because he's too lazy too put his rock boots on at the climbing wall...

In reply to BnB:

Yeah it is primarily because I'm too lazy to change shoes mate.

A lot less impressive when you consider that if I do change shoes I'll only get up hvs on lead.

In reply to joe.91:

I have phantom guides, whilst I find them great for alpine stuff as they can take a rigid crampon, are fairly comfortable and are 'slim' enough to climb rock in, their major drawback is how wet they get. Not a problem for one day routes, but annoying for bivving or doing multiple days in a row. I ended up with some horrible blisters after using them multiple days in a row with no opportunity to dry them out properly.

If I had the money, I would buy something like the Rebel Lite GTX for alpine summer stuff and easy rock in the UK. They're about 700g lighter per pair, still take a crampon and looking at the pictures, have a really nice narrow/slim toe box for doing harder rock climbing.

In reply to Cameron94:
Going stronger than me then mate. My few VS leads still leave me feeling pretty stoked. HVS is a mile away on lead.

Might be down the Fort with a pal next weekend or shortly after. Are you and Nath pretty busy with college? Hoping we might find some ice up high, or neve at least.

In reply to BnB:

I'll message you on facebook man, save cluttering this thread.

Callum did you ever get the photos from North Buttress?

Hope you're well.

Cameron

In reply to Cameron94:

Hey Cameron,

I don't think I got them (although I did 'cleanup' my hotmail account recently, so I may have accidentally deleted the email!). Here's the link to the photo's my friend got of you, if you never got to see them - http://tinyurl.com/oa23nvv (latter half of the album). I'm doing well btw, looking forward to summer rock and maybe a last bit of winter climbing, hope you and your two friend's are doing well also!

@Joe.91, apologies for the slight hijack but it's a bump anyway!

In reply to joe.91:

The Rebel Carbon Ultra are rated as a B2/B3 but the way They are constructed they are really comfy to walk in. They are awesome for Alpine rock climbing - they fit like ballet shoes. I went off route last year on the AD of Point de Cineastes and ended up leading the crux pitch of the adjaceant TD in them - i don't reckon i would have managed that so easily in my Nepals. They ice climb brilliantly - stiff enough if you set the ankle up correctly. They take a Petzl Lynx superbly and not bad on a G12. I wouldn't wear them in Scotland - it's just too wet - i'd stay with well waterproof boots - the Guides or Nepals or anything else in full grain leather! For the Aonach Eagach a couple of weeks back i wore leather B1's (mallerstang) from Alt Berg with a pair of knackered old G10's.

In reply to CMcBain:

Thanks for the replies, think I'm favouring at the Rebel Lites at the moment. Going to try them on later in the week which will be the deciding factor!

In reply to CMcBain:

Hiya mate,

I was one of the folks with Cameron on North Buttress, you've got some really good pictures in that gallery. Would you mind if I pinched the ones with myself in them ?

Have a good season man!

In reply to Nath93:

Hey, should have clarified that the pictures aren't mine (my photography is rubbish!) but taken by a mate of mine. I'll send you a PM and give you his details.

Cheers