UKH

For conditions before the 6th March see - http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=579376

Please add new conditions info here...

After an unsettled mild spell in the Lakes the last week here has seen some really nice days of sun and lower winds, the freeze-line has dropped below the summits on a number of occasions but its not been cold enough to bring ice or mixed routes into condition with the temps going into plus figures up high during the days. Many of the gullies have been climbed though on OK neve at times, often aided by an early start, there is still loads of snow cover up high and many of the easy gullies are complete. The Red Tarn face gullies and Brown Cove Crags gullies are still complete, the Nethermost to Tarn Crag gullies are also looking complete, the easy gullies of Great End also and the Bowfell area has plenty of snow still with South Gully and the Great Slab being well covered.

The overnight freezes have given some OK frozen snow at times for climbing but it has been marginal and cornices have been worth watching all week as they are now a little saturated and heavy, large cracks have appeared behind the Helvellyn headwall cornice between the ground and snow, this is the snow pack starting to part with the warming ground and could eventually give a full depth avalanche as it did a few years back…

The classic edges of the Lakes are still snow covered, Swirral Edge is still well snowed up high and despite the daily thaws the tracks are well trodden and icy, crampons and axes definitely recommended. Pinnacle Ridge is bounded by snow but dry on the crest throughout with a finishing snow slope. The conditions definitely have a Spring like feel currently..

I have had some easy climbing this week but the softening snow, great cover up high and good weather has been amazing for skiing, some of the best skiing I’ve had in the Lakes, always brilliant and honestly no place I’d rather ski when its like this!

The Raise tows are by all accounts good currently with ‘Spring snow’…

South facing crags would have given some great rock climbing at times this week also with some snow about for atmosphere!

Some photos on here - http://www.mountaincircles.com/lakes-winter-update/

and on here - https://www.facebook.com/MOViEiT

In reply to paddy cave:

Thanks for the well timed pre-thaw post and great photos to give a good idea of what is likely to survive and hopefully develop n icely!

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

from what I could see from red screes this afternoon, there's not a lot of scope left and its due to be mild.

In reply to Full moon addict:

Hi all,

Some snaps of Striding Edge and Helvellyn on my page here from today: https://www.facebook.com/LakelandMountainGuides

Striding is in summer condition,Swirral is still holding some hard snow on the exit ramp and a little on the ridge. The cornices on the top have cracked severely and look quite dangerous now.

Have a safe weekend all.

In reply to Burty21:

All gone now in the lakes then?

In reply to paddy cave:

I think, almost very rarely brilliant would be amore honest description of Lake District Skiing…

In reply to paddy cave:

has anyone been up lords rake / west wall travers this weekend? is there any snow left in there? thanks

In reply to Gael Force:

I'm a non-skier, but whilst out in the hills this winter and watching the skiers & boarders i genuinely wished i could ski and had the gear. I'm now considering getting my act together so i can have a go next year. It has looked amazing for weeks now.

In reply to paddy cave:

Looks like a fairly devastating 'turbo thaw' but the optimistic side of me wonders if there's anything useful left on the gullies of Great End, with some ice formation this week to fill the gaps in...

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

I've been wondering the same, without forgetting to worry about melting cornices, but not holding out much hope if I'm honest.

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

From high raise today (so not best view) there didn't look to be much snow over towards great end. The few snow patches around langdale not firm in shade this morning.

In reply to Matt_b:

Gully lines remain well filled today ( binocular view from Keswick area)

In reply to Bob Bennett aka Last Thursday:

Does anyone know if the cornices on Great End have collapsed yet. Wouldn't want to be under one of those when the sun gets to them. Can you see them with your binos Bob?

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:


I passed below Great End yesterday. It's all looking very thin, Central is discontinuous and South East has virtually nothing below the chockstone.

In reply to sheep:

Thanks for the post. By Central being discontinuous do you mean that the Chockstone below the amphitheatre is obvious or that actually there are breaks in the snow leading up to that? I'd expect there are some crevasses anyway. How did Window look? Any signs of ice formation with these overnight frosts? (Really clutching at straws now!)

Thanks

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

There's a snow patch leading up to the chockstone, with the bottom of that being just below the base of the crag. The chockstone's black, some more snow above that but the LH finish looks to run into black rock. The RH ramp finish is complete, and no cornice above.

The shorter gullies further right look like the best bet for some sport, and , as you say, a good freeze last night and another tonight could have firmed it up.

In reply to sheep:

I'm heading up to Red Tarn v.early tomorrow hoping and that no.1 or no.2 gullies are ok. hopefully the snow will freeze up nicely overnight.

Anyone been up today?

In reply to paulh.0776:

Have a look at the gallery on lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk I think Monday's photo showed No.1 gully incomplete but No.2 gully still there. Looked like the gully on Catsye Cam and Nethermost may be complete...

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

Thanks, I think that was taken Fri?
I guess I'll just have to go and take a look. Might have a look in Nethermost as well tho
Was on Dove Crag yesterday nothing wintery at all over there, cracking day to be climbing tho.

In reply to paddy cave:

Amazing day to be on the hill today. Helvellyn at its best - Striding Edge is a dry scramble now, but is amazing on a day like this. The summit plateau is in summer condition and the cornices are large, drooping, cracked and several have collapsed. The upper section and final ramps of Swirral Edge are holding steep snow which definitely needs an axe and crampons to make things safe. The gullies on the east face are complete though and the steep ski descents look amazing.

Pics at http://www.facebook.com/LakelandAscents

In reply to Si Withington:

Catsty Cam main gully looks complete all the way, and the gullies in Brown Cove Crags looked ok from a distance.
Red Tarn Cove, No 2 gully today:
After a clear night with temperatures well below freezing and an Alpine start (6.45am) the snow on the face was solid enough to climb, some previous slides down the gullies has compacted the surface and made for an easier ascent and some good neve was to be found in the places that the sun doesn't get to, the surface was good and solid and took a front point nicely.
As the sun warmed the surface it became soft very quickly and I was glad to summit (8.30) before the full force of the suns started to make a very noticeable difference.

The large double fracture line around the summit was evidence of the previous warm days, and were the cornice has overhangs it's only a matter of time and before they go for a big slide.

All in all a cracking day to be out, but climbing has to be done very early at the moment to stand any chance of good conditions.

images of the day at:

http://www.paulhorsmanphotographer.blogspot.co.uk