Winter boots

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 Chrismith 12 Dec 2013

Hello,
What are peoples thoughts on the Scarpa Rebel Ultra GTX boots? Particularly with regards to warmth/support. Having tried a pair on today im shocked at how light and comfortable they are! Does this new thinner sole mean less shock absorption though?

Also, how would you compare them to the new Mammut Nordwands?

Im thinking of changing boots this year from my Cumbres as after trying almost everything I just cannot get rid of the heel lift. I hear scarpa have changed their design somewhat since the Cumbres to a more universal fit...so im kinda hoping its not a case of "my feet simply just dont like Scarpa!"

Cheers
Chris
Post edited at 15:00
OP Chrismith 12 Dec 2013
In reply to n.LiVE:

bump - any opinions appreciated!

Cheers
 Pedro 12 Dec 2013
In reply to n.LiVE:

Hi, the best winter boots I have ever had are AKU Spiders Kevlar GTX. There light, warm,and for me very comfortable. You may find them on offer if you search ! Good Luck.
 ColdWill 13 Dec 2013
In reply to n.LiVE:

These lock your heels better than any other boots I've used, they walk incredibly well, almost like a summer boot and have similar warmth to the Trango Lite. Size the same as your Phantom Guide/Ultra, which also lock your heel down very well btw.
The catch for me is that they absolutely kill the outside of both my ankle bones after 45 minutes to the point I can't wear them for a couple of days even to stand in (I am the only person I know who this happens to btw). Mine will be for sale, mint used once 45.5
 Brian Pollock 13 Dec 2013
In reply to n.LiVE:
I bought a pair recently after looking at and trying a lot of boots, they had the best fit and heel lock of everything I tried by a long way.

So far I have used them on technical mixed, vertical ice and on one long walk/scramble both with and without crampons.

In terms of comfort, the only problem I've had is the beds of my feet were a bit sore after the walk in on their first time out. However, I suppose you could call that the break in (1 hour) because having now used them for a lot more walking I didn't notice any problems. I would say they felt as comfortable as by La Sportiva Trango Alps to walk in (which are very comfortable). Despite being very rigid they rock well on flat ground.

In terms of warmth, my feet have so far always been very warm in these boots. Admittedly I have probably only worn them in temperatures down to about -2C, maybe a little more. But, for example, during a long stint sat belaying 2 seconds on the crest of a ridge after dark with a lot of wind I never once noticed any chill in my toes. I have been very impressed with the warmth, considering how light these boots are. I don't have any other B3s to compare them to but they are noticeably warmer than my Trangos which I have used for summer alpine and Scottish winter so I imagine they will be ideal for both.

Climbing ability is obviously off the scale. High stepping on mixed ground felt as close to climbing in rock shoes as I could imagine it can do in a pair of boots. The support whilst front pointing is fantastic and the ankle flex means your foot never feels restricted.

In summary, I can't rate these boots highly enough. Having been tempted by warmer boots like the Scarpa Phantom Guide and La Sportiva Batura 2.0 I am very glad I went with these. The final straw was the fit (much better heel lock, no shift inside the boot but still space to wiggle toes, big improvement on the Trangos here) and in line with the wealth of opinions expressed on UKC, the best boot is the one that fits best.

The only limitation I foresee with these boots is of course they probably wouldn't be suitable for very cold conditions. However, although a Batura or Phantom Guide would fair better here, I feel these boots strike a perfect balance between performance and warmth for their intended purpose (being Scottish winter and summer alpine). If I want to climb in the Alps in winter I'll buy double boots. But for 90% of what I'll be doing these feel perfect.

Can't recommend enough. If they fit, buy them!
Post edited at 09:06
OP Chrismith 13 Dec 2013
In reply to Brian Pollock:
Thanks for all your replies, very helpful!

I was looking for the phantoms but they never had any in my size and tempted me to try on the ultra gtx's and I really cant fault them so far myself. Looks like im going to be spending a bit more than first thought! Money well spent though - they will be predominantly used for scottish winter.

I imagine there shouldnt be a problem with g14/newmatic's?

Coldwill - Im yet to decide on a size, though I am around 45-46...you may get an email
Post edited at 10:14
 gethin_allen 13 Dec 2013
In reply to n.LiVE:

In a recent rock and ice best of the year article they really rated the asolo Eiger gv and then the scarpa phantom guide. I tried a few asolo boots on as while back and found they fit well on my feet that normally fit scarpa. Possibly worth trying.

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