/ Cams in winter!
I have heard a couple of people's opinions on cams in winter. Just thought I would get a few more before packing them in my kit for next weeks Scotland trip! Any advice is appreciated.
Expect some contradictory opinions. Everyone has their own pet theory, some folk don't take them at all but others wouldn't be without them. I find they get used quite a bit on Cairngorm granite, and I might take up to 5 on a mixed route, but elsewhere I'll get by with 2 or 3, usually the wrong ones.
FWIW, the advice about cams for mixed routes from Martin Moran's Scotland's Winter Mountains is:
Grade II-III - useful but not essential
Grade IV-V - 3 or 4 of sizes between 1 and 3
Grade VI+ - full set 7 from 0.5 to 3.5
Cams in winter are called "Hexes" :-)
On mixed routed in the Lakes or Gorms I often take friends 00 - 2.5 all inclusive and a 3 camalot, on ice routes on the Ben I don't take any, for other stuff it's somewhere in between but typically 0, 0.5, 1.5, 2.5 & 3 camalot. Also carry three hexes - not sure on the size but basically the ones that are bigger than a wall nut 10 placed sideways.
One of the belays I found on Orion Direct was markedly improved by a small cam!
We only placed three bits of rock gear in the ten pitches when we did it - all the rest was on screws. I think from memory the belay before the crux was on in place pegs though.
The ice routes I was talking about on the Ben are the late season Vs really. If you're not sure what you'll be climbing I'd stick two or three in. (0.5, 1.5 & 2.5?)
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