OK so I was out climbing at the weekend and my La Sportiva Solutions are now out of action. The strap on them has broken and doesn't look easily repairable (could sew it but it probably wouldnt last), so I'm looking to get a new pair and thought I'd get peoples opinion on the models out there just now.
I loved the Solutions when I first got them, the aggressive feel was excellent and the full rubber heel cup was right up my street. This was when I was sport climbing. I'm now much more into bouldering, and have noticed that the heel isn't as snug as I'd like for difficult heel hooks, so I'm thinking of trying something new!
My thoughts are either Scarpa Vapor S or La Sportiva Muiras.
I'm a Vapor V convert from 5.10. For me they're a great fit, brilliant rubber, can't fault 'em. Compared to the 5.10 whites for instance the heel is much better fit, shoe overall more flexible and sensitive but still edges perfectly and don't require weeks of agony to wear in. Sizing is a bit out, down 1-2 sizes from shoe size.
Not tried the Muiras, g/f really rates them, bit more pricey though?
I think the problem with thestraps breaking is folk try and pull them over the foot to tighten them, rather than pulling the tab outwards and away from the foot first, then bring the tab and strap back over to close the thing off. I've had mine for over a year now and they've had lots of use - the straps are both still fine (kiss of death saying that now, I realise!)
Have you tried the Miura VS, rather than the lace ups? I have both and for bouldering the VS are great, but still second to the Solutions. It's still the Miura lace-ups for routes however.
The Miura VS would be the choice over the lace-ups for me. I'll be trying those and the Vapor S I think to see how the heel fits. If the heel on the Solutions was a bit narrower I'd definitely go for another pair!
Apparently it's rusty eyelets that usually cause the Solution straps to break. The solutions have the best fitting heel for me, just a shame they are rock solid.
The second best heel for me is the Anasazi VCS if you get them tight. If you want a good heel I wouldn't rely on a slipper unless it's one with a velcro strap. The miura is a decent shoe that I use for routes occasionally but for bouldering I find them a bit flat/stiff and the lack of toe rubber is occasionally a pain...
La Sportiva shoes tend to be fairly narrow - everybody I know with various models of them have quite narrow feet. I've got wider feet at the toes and found Scarpa to be a good fit for me (so if your Solutions were a good fit, scarpas most likely won't be).
Sticking with La Sportiva, there's always the pythons or cobras (though these seem to be rarer in the UK).
Read one review of the Evolv Sharman - the reviewer recommended them as an alternative to the Solutions.
You could also check out the 'Andrea Boldrini' range. Apparently fit/size is like the la sportivas. Only problem will be availability and price (quite expensive - Ellis Brigham has them, as do Banana Fingers).
currently wearing Scarpa thunders mainly because they seemed to fit well and were half price so i got them for £40 they are ok but have highlighted to me just how much i miss my
took a while to break in but when they finally did they were great the rubber seemed to stick to anything and i was really lucky because the smell of them made me want to get away from them so much i kept on going upwards tp try and get away from them.
My next pair will definitely be another pair of Ponta
> (In reply to cha1n)
> Really? I didn't know that.
Yes, there was a company in the far east that were offering to replace straps and eyelets for free if you paid postage (I can't imagine it worked out cost effective though). Anyway, they had an in-depth article with photos showing the rusty eyelets. I thought that La Sportiva started using different eyelets hence less people having breakages but I may be imagining that part.
I have a narrow heel but my forefoot is wide and that is pretty much the shape of the solutions. I'm going to try the solutions as my next shoe as they are the comfiest performance shoe I've ever tried on (apart from the Jet7), it's always the solid heel that's put me off in the past.
Has anybody used this company and could comment? Could be a good way to get my solutions back in action! The eyelets on mine rusted within a few months of taking them out the box...poor quality really.
In reply to craig1983: dragons seem to pop off my heel when heel hooking as they are low rise. Makes rhem more comfy that the whites which pressure my Achilles.
Scapa stix and solutions have been my favorite shoes.
In reply to Si dH:
Blackwings fit my feet a bit better than teams, which were too narrow at the front. Also Teams were such a strain to get on each time that I felt like I didnt have a consistent fit - ie they were on my feet slightly different every time! :oS Didnt get on with them well enough to form a proper opinion though,