/ Buying New Climbing Shoes.....

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craig1983 - on 07 Jan 2013
OK so I was out climbing at the weekend and my La Sportiva Solutions are now out of action. The strap on them has broken and doesn't look easily repairable (could sew it but it probably wouldnt last), so I'm looking to get a new pair and thought I'd get peoples opinion on the models out there just now.

I loved the Solutions when I first got them, the aggressive feel was excellent and the full rubber heel cup was right up my street. This was when I was sport climbing. I'm now much more into bouldering, and have noticed that the heel isn't as snug as I'd like for difficult heel hooks, so I'm thinking of trying something new!

My thoughts are either Scarpa Vapor S or La Sportiva Muiras.

Opinions/Alternatives??
craig1983 - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983:
Spelling! - *Miura*
1poundSOCKS - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983: Scarpa Instinct Lace.
craig1983 - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Not the biggest fan of lace-ups these days...I like being able to slip them on and off quickly.
Justin T - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983:

I'm a Vapor V convert from 5.10. For me they're a great fit, brilliant rubber, can't fault 'em. Compared to the 5.10 whites for instance the heel is much better fit, shoe overall more flexible and sensitive but still edges perfectly and don't require weeks of agony to wear in. Sizing is a bit out, down 1-2 sizes from shoe size.

Not tried the Muiras, g/f really rates them, bit more pricey though?
Fraser on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983:

I think the problem with thestraps breaking is folk try and pull them over the foot to tighten them, rather than pulling the tab outwards and away from the foot first, then bring the tab and strap back over to close the thing off. I've had mine for over a year now and they've had lots of use - the straps are both still fine (kiss of death saying that now, I realise!)

Have you tried the Miura VS, rather than the lace ups? I have both and for bouldering the VS are great, but still second to the Solutions. It's still the Miura lace-ups for routes however.
Anoetic - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Fraser: Hi, I use Vapour V's and Miura VS's and they are both great shoes. However for bouldering i find mysef pulling on the Miura's
craig1983 - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Fraser:

The Miura VS would be the choice over the lace-ups for me. I'll be trying those and the Vapor S I think to see how the heel fits. If the heel on the Solutions was a bit narrower I'd definitely go for another pair!
cha1n on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983:

Apparently it's rusty eyelets that usually cause the Solution straps to break. The solutions have the best fitting heel for me, just a shame they are rock solid.

The second best heel for me is the Anasazi VCS if you get them tight. If you want a good heel I wouldn't rely on a slipper unless it's one with a velcro strap. The miura is a decent shoe that I use for routes occasionally but for bouldering I find them a bit flat/stiff and the lack of toe rubber is occasionally a pain...
turtlespit - on 07 Jan 2013
La Sportiva shoes tend to be fairly narrow - everybody I know with various models of them have quite narrow feet. I've got wider feet at the toes and found Scarpa to be a good fit for me (so if your Solutions were a good fit, scarpas most likely won't be).

Sticking with La Sportiva, there's always the pythons or cobras (though these seem to be rarer in the UK).

Read one review of the Evolv Sharman - the reviewer recommended them as an alternative to the Solutions.

You could also check out the 'Andrea Boldrini' range. Apparently fit/size is like the la sportivas. Only problem will be availability and price (quite expensive - Ellis Brigham has them, as do Banana Fingers).
UKC Forums - on 07 Jan 2013
This thread was started in the ROCKTALK forum and has now been moved.
Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

Climbing Gear - Post all your climbing gear-related questions here. You know how you love comparing Friends with Camalots!

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alanlgm - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983:

currently wearing Scarpa thunders mainly because they seemed to fit well and were half price so i got them for £40 they are ok but have highlighted to me just how much i miss my

Evolv Pontas

took a while to break in but when they finally did they were great the rubber seemed to stick to anything and i was really lucky because the smell of them made me want to get away from them so much i kept on going upwards tp try and get away from them.

My next pair will definitely be another pair of Ponta
Fraser on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to cha1n:
> (In reply to craig1983)
>
> Apparently it's rusty eyelets that usually cause the Solution straps to break.

Really? I didn't know that.

> The solutions have the best fitting heel for me, just a shame they are rock solid.

I love the heel fit of the Solutions, probably as my feet are pretty narrow, as someone above mentioned.

cha1n on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Fraser:
> (In reply to cha1n)
> [...]
>
> Really? I didn't know that.

Yes, there was a company in the far east that were offering to replace straps and eyelets for free if you paid postage (I can't imagine it worked out cost effective though). Anyway, they had an in-depth article with photos showing the rusty eyelets. I thought that La Sportiva started using different eyelets hence less people having breakages but I may be imagining that part.

I have a narrow heel but my forefoot is wide and that is pretty much the shape of the solutions. I'm going to try the solutions as my next shoe as they are the comfiest performance shoe I've ever tried on (apart from the Jet7), it's always the solid heel that's put me off in the past.
cha1n on 07 Jan 2013
craig1983 - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to UKC Forums:

Sorry!
craig1983 - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to cha1n:

Has anybody used this company and could comment? Could be a good way to get my solutions back in action! The eyelets on mine rusted within a few months of taking them out the box...poor quality really.
Jordon Fleming - on 07 Jan 2013
if i still got life left in ur solutions screw buying a new pair !!! their expensive !! either knot the strap or last resort wrap climbing tape or duck tape around the shoe to keep it tight.
craig1983 - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Jordon Fleming:

I'm quite keen to try something new....you never know, although the solutions are deemed as one of the best shoes out there...its all about fit.

I tried on some Scarpa Vapors and Instincts last night....heel was too wide!

Has anyone climbed in the 5.10 Teams or Dragons?
Si dH - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983:
Blackwings have awesome heels
ads.ukclimbing.com
craig1983 - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Good shout.... Any idea what the difference between the Teams and Blackwings is? (in terms of performance)
Kevster - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983: dragons seem to pop off my heel when heel hooking as they are low rise. Makes rhem more comfy that the whites which pressure my Achilles.
Scapa stix and solutions have been my favorite shoes.
Jordon Fleming - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983: if uve got quite a skinny heal try evolve talons or for a flat shoe try the 5.10 anazizes
craig1983 - on 09 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983:

Does anyone know which stores stock a decent range of 5.10s? Cant find anywhere closeby in Glasgow to try their top end shoes!
Si dH - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to Si dH:
Blackwings fit my feet a bit better than teams, which were too narrow at the front. Also Teams were such a strain to get on each time that I felt like I didnt have a consistent fit - ie they were on my feet slightly different every time! :oS Didnt get on with them well enough to form a proper opinion though,
unknownclimber6 - on 14 Jan 2013
In reply to craig1983:

just got myself a new pair of dragons and they are awsome!!!
haven't even been tying the laces as they are tight enough ;) are easy off and on!

would also recommend evolv shamans most comfortable aggressive shoe i have ever used and are similar to solutions in some ways.

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