6 Mini Winter Hillwalking Adventures

© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com

As daylight dwindles and the air begins to nip, most walkers feel flurries of excitement. Winter is prime hill season, the time of year when hillwalking gains a keener edge and the peaks grow in both seriousness and beauty. Winter dreams feature white-caked ridges under ice clear skies (well, mine do at least), but while some lucky weekends result in full memory cards and suntans we're as likely to end up with a character building struggle against hostile elements. Seasonal aspirations are typically tied to the big peaks: a glowering Ben Nevis; the arctic expanses of the Cairngorm Plateaux; the Snowdon Horseshoe in glistening Alpine-looking glory. But here's the catch; the higher you go, the harsher average conditions. Howling winds, sleety mush and views of the inside of a cloud all have a certain masochistic attraction, but in prolonged bad spells it can be hard to maintain enthusiasm. This is when it's worth having a plan B.

Lower hills can often fall below the bad weather ceiling even while their higher neighbours are clagged in, and may fit more manageably between late dawn and early dusk. Although snow can never be categorically ruled out at any level its likelihood obviously decreases with falling altitude, and sometimes it's nice to know you won't be ploughing through knee deep drifts all day. Reducing the elevation doesn't necessarily entail a walk in the park however; challenge can still be found. So maybe forget the Munros once in a while and think a bit smaller. Here are six of the best mini gems, a collection of individual mountains and whole ranges that prove that downsizing needn't mean compromising on quality.

1. Rhinogau, Snowdonia

Rhinog Fach from Llyn Hywel  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Rhinog Fach from Llyn Hywel
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Jun 2008
The knobbliest hills in Wales, the Rhinogau - Rhinogs to Anglophones - are a secretive backwater a world away from (and several hundred feet shorter than) Snowdonia's ever-busy 3000-ers. The north of the range is particularly tough going, the idyllic wooded valleys of Cwm Nantcol and Cwm Bychan leading into a heather-choked labyrinth of gritstone crags, scattered tarns and rough tops that make up with attitude what they lack in altitude. The walking possibilities are many, ranging from short scrambly summit bids to historic through-routes such as Bwlch Tyddiad with its famous Roman Steps. For a full weekend try a north-south backpacking traverse of the lot, camping wild in whatever secluded hollow takes your fancy. Start on the rocky wasteland of Moel Ysgyfarnogod - as hard to walk as to pronounce – then take in Rhinogs Fawr and Fach, arguably the best of the hills, before a long gentler finish on the grassy southern peaks of Y Llethr and Diffwys. Proximity to Cardigan Bay can limit snow cover in the Rhinogau even while higher peaks are plastered; it also means great sea views.

Maps
OS Landranger (1:50000) 124
Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40000) Snowdonia South

Guidebooks
Mountain and Hill Walking in Snowdonia Vol2, Carl Rogers (pb Mara books)
The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, Dan Bailey (pb Cicerone)

Rhinog Fawr from Bwlch Drws Ardudwy  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Rhinog Fawr from Bwlch Drws Ardudwy
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Jun 2008

2. Langdale Pikes, Cumbria

Langdale Pikes from Glaramara  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Langdale Pikes from Glaramara
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Oct 2007

Though far overtopped by surrounding fells the Pikes lack nothing in character, and would stand tall in any shortlist of Lakeland's finest. Seen from the north the three main summits Pike of Stickle, Harrison Stickle and Pavey Ark barely rise proud out of the rolling slopes onto which they back; but the southern side is a striking contrast, an array of rocky bastions and deep-cut ghylls that makes up one of the best loved of Cumbrian skylines. When snow swathes the higher hills their aspect and elevation can often keep the Pikes fairly clear – bad news for winter climbers perhaps, but a bonus if you just want an easy walk. Year round there's something special for everyone here - classic rock climbs on mountain crags such as Gimmer and Pavey, long scrambling expeditions linking up various tiers and faces, and quick half-day summit hits on well trodden paths. With such easy access you'll never walk alone here (even if you're walking through a storm), but on a hill of this quality you can't begrudge the company.

Maps
OS Landranger (1:50000) 90
Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40000) Lake District

Guidebooks
Great Mountain Days in the Lake District, Mark Richards (pb Cicerone)
The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, Dan Bailey (pb Cicerone)

Langdale Pikes from Great End  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Langdale Pikes from Great End
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Mar 2010

3. Isle of Arran

Cir Mhor, Caisteal Abhail and the Witch's Step from North Goatfell  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Cir Mhor, Caisteal Abhail and the Witch's Step from North Goatfell
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Sep 2010

Sub-3000-foot mountains don't come more impressive than Arran's, a compact cluster of tor-studded granite peaks sailing the Firth of Clyde and dominating the northeast corner of the island. The two big classics here are ridge walking horseshoes, the circuits of Glen Sannox and Glen Rosa. Both routes hinge on spear-sharp Cir Mhor, the central summit of the range and arguably the most compelling single reason in Scotland not to get hung up on Munros. On both walks technical difficulties can be tailored at will. Avoid the craggier sections and there's nothing harder than rough airy walking with occasional hands-on moments; but if done direct the crests include some superb scrambling, and even pitches of Moderate and Difficult grade rock climbing. Most notable of these is the A'Chir ridge, the best fun it is possible to have on a scrambling traverse outside the Skye Cuillin. With their southerly latitude, maritime character and limited height these hills are gripped by hard winter conditions less frequently than most Scottish ranges, and may be a good bet for those looking to escape the snow and ice of the Mainland.

Maps
OS Landranger (1:50000) 69
Harvey Superwalker (1:25000) Arran

Guidebooks
Great Mountain Days in Scotland, Dan Bailey (pb Cicerone)
Scotland's Mountain Ridges, Dan Bailey (pb Cicerone)
The Islands of Scotland Including Skye (pb SMC)

Cir Mhor from Caisteal Abhail  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Cir Mhor from Caisteal Abhail
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Sep 2010

4. Sgurr na Stri, Skye.

Sgurr na Stri from Elgol  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Sgurr na Stri from Elgol
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com

The main tops of Skye's Cuillin are fairly challenging even in summer; snow increases their technicality, and in such conditions non-climbing walkers will prefer to stay low. A craggy peak half enclosed by the serrated arc of the main Cuillin Ridge, the pivotal position of Sgurr na Stri gives it perhaps the most comprehensive close-quarters view of Scotland's greatest mountain range. With its feet in the sea and a spacious outlook over Loch Coruisk, The Cuillin's heart, this mini summit gives a feeling of vertical scale out of proportion with its measly sub-500m elevation. Its mountain character is particularly evident in the ascent from the south, a superb long scramble on sound slabby gabbro that would be far better known anywhere but Skye. The non-scrambler's alternative route from the north may be technically more straightforward, but it too covers plenty of rough ground. Sgurr na Stri's inaccessibility adds to its attraction. All the approaches are adventures, whether you opt for the boat trip from Elgol, the stunning coast path via Camasunary or the long scenic through-route from Sligachan to Strathaird.

Maps
OS Landranger (1:50000) 32
Harvey Superwalker (1:25000) Skye: The Cuillin

Guidebooks
Great Mountain Days in Scotland, Dan Bailey (pb Cicerone)
Skye Scrambles, Noel Williams (pb SMC)
The Islands of Scotland Including Skye (pb SMC)

The Cuillin and Loch Coruisk from Sgurr na Stri  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
The Cuillin and Loch Coruisk from Sgurr na Stri
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Sep 2010

5. Suilven

camp under Suilven  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
camp under Suilven
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com

'Any hope of subduing him is false; the mere sight of him is overpowering...His chest is hard as rock, hard as a lower millstone...He looks down on all that are haughty; he is king over all that are proud'. The writers of the Hebrew bible may never have had the luck to visit Assynt, but their description of the fabled Leviathan seems oddly apt for Suilven, the area's celebrity peak. There's certainly something of the sea monster about this armoured dorsal fin rising out of a rippled watery landscape, a free-standing freak of geology that shrugs off all attempts to pin it down with purple prose just as arrows and spears didn't much worry Leviathan. It's not quite a Corbett, but who cares? Suilven is our most eccentric mountain individual, and the full traverse of its elevated spine a classic ridge scramble in a wild west coast setting. While you're in the area why not look in on the neighbours? Stac Pollaidh, Quinag and Cul Mòr are weird wee beasties too, any one of which could have been featured in this best-of selection. And for afters, a pie stop at the famous Lochinver Larder is a must.

Maps
OS Landranger (1:50000) 15
Harvey Superwalker (1:25000) Suilven

Guidebooks
Scotland's Mountain Ridges, Dan Bailey (pb Cicerone)
Great Mountain Days in Scotland, Dan Bailey (pb Cicerone)
Northern Highlands, Nick Williams (pb Pocket Mountains)

Suilven and Cul Mor from Cul Beag  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Suilven and Cul Mor from Cul Beag
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, May 2009

6. Uig hills, Lewis

Uig hills - Cracabhal from Mealaisbhal  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Uig hills - Cracabhal from Mealaisbhal
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Oct 2010

They don't even manage to break the 600m contour but don't take that as a sign of dullness. These little upstarts are as rugged as any in the Western Isles (there's stiff competition), and outdo many hills twice their height for physical challenge and stirring remoteness. The peaks and passes bristle with a remarkable amount of exposed rock, a rough-and-tumble landscape pitted with lochans that's reminiscent of Snowdonia's Rhinogau - only more so. Their location gives the Uig hills an elemental feel, with the tundra-like blanket bog of Lewis rippling off to one side and the sand-fringed sea on three others. The central glen of the Bealach Raonasgail provides easy access, splitting the hills into two parallel chains. Tackle the lot as an all-day toughie, or make a quick hit of just one or two summits with the aid of a mountain bike on the handy estate access track. Step off the track and the ground is almost pathless, the local wildlife outnumbering the occasional enterprising walker. Significant snowfall may be unusual here, but Atlantic gales and rainfall certainly aren't; it's all part of the fun.

Map
OS Landranger (1:50000) 13

Guidebooks
Great Mountain Days in Scotland, Dan Bailey (pb Cicerone)
The Islands of Scotland Including Skye (pb SMC)
Walking on Harris and Lewis, Richard Barrett (pb Cicerone)

Uig hills - Teinneasabhal from the Cracabhal - Mealaisbhal col  © Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com
Uig hills - Teinneasabhal from the Cracabhal - Mealaisbhal col
© Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com, Oct 2010


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