UKH

I made the mistake of offering to replace an injection seal on my friends car that sprung a leak.

Unfortutately, can't pull the injector out. It can rotate easily and move up a few mm but no further. Any ideas?

Also previous mechanic appears to have overtightened the fixing bolt as the head detached while fiddling- oh dear. Will try extracting it i guess;(

(Peugeot 308 1.6Hdi)

Thanks

You can pry then out with a small crowbar. Don't go nuts but they can take a bit of force under the flange.

Some WD40 left to soak can help.

Then more prying.

If the above doesn't work, could try reattaching the fuel, warm the engine, and see if it comes out easier from a warm engine (never tried this, but I would in your position)

My poor stupid brain read that as "ejector seat" and instantly thought of Aston Martins

I've had passengers with whom an ejector seat would've been useful 

Not kidding

Oh well on with my Sunday. Sometimes I don't know how I can handle all the excitement ha ha ha

The comment above about trying on a warm engine is good.

Failing that, you could loosen the securing bolts a turn or two, and then run the engine and let the cylinder pressure help. Safety glasses, stand back, don't fire the injector through the bonnet, fuel leak risk, etc etc. I had to do this on an old BMW diesel and ended up loosening the injector bolts quite a bit and then driving. Still didn't come loose. It took a decent drive to finally pop the injector up a little, then it was easy. It had been leaking for a while and was well stuck. Careful of the fuel lines.

Slide hammer. Do not crowbar it out lol

It will be a lot easier with a slide hammer, not saying you can't get it out without one but they're not expensive. Twisting at the same time as pulling is the best way and if it's rotating then keep turning it and spraying it and it'll get looser. There shouldn't be anything else holding it in unless something is broken. I believe you will need to update the calibration code once fitted.

Thanks, tried those methods with no success. Time for the pros. Car just been taken to local garage. nice guy who also seems a bit of a bolt removal expert. Fingers crossed otherwise big engine work so would prob scrap.

would have bought a slide hammer kit if the injector had a thread at the top or the fuel line nut wasn't so inaccessible (pointing away)

First, the acronym lol should be banned. Never ever use it. Ever.

It's pretty common to get these out with a small crow bar. Why do you think a crowbar will damage it? The bottom surface of the flange has an easy bit to get some purchase on and it doesn't need to seal anything.

The cylinder head isn't made of cheese either. If the crowbar is going to lean on anything soft, protect it with a block of wood or something.

Most people aren't going to own a slide hammer, but they likely do have a crowbar. Here's somebody popping them out with a crowbar as it happens.

youtube.com/watch?v=T_v39AeY5jk&

lol

I never use the phrases “as it happens”, “how’s about that then”, “goodness gracious young man”, “now then, now then” etc. Lol. 

But you use lol. Such filth.

lol

youtube.com/watch?v=wRom-BYrAGI&

classic

Amazing 

Good news in that the sheared mounting bolt has been extracted, but no luck with the injector yet. Can't understand what is sticking if it can rotate and move up a bit?

Is that the garage that can't get it out? 

From memory they are made from two main parts, an inner bit and a sleeve. The sleeve is a tight fit, and rusts in place, the inner bit can still jiggle a bit.

Make sure you ask the garage how they got it out when they do. Would be handy to know. Assume it's not going to be a head off, and press out job as the costs will be silly at that point.

Yes, the garage. That would explain it. How would one get the sleeve out if it separates?

Turns out my new car has same 100hp 1.6 engine where i'm getting a cylinder 1 contribution/balance code together with an egr circuit high code (PO0490) (as well as lower than expected fuel economy). My armchair diagnosis is that carbon buildup has blocked/closed the egr valve and caused air balance error in the injector furthest away from valve? What do you reckon before i ask the garage? (although i've heard that quite a few errors can be thrown from a failing battery- which i think it may be as cranking voltage drops below 10v)

I suspect it would need to be a head off at that point. Without an injector to hand I can't be sure, but I think for the inner part to separate, something will have fallen into your engine.

That's the edge of what's acceptable. Not terrible, but probably just good enough. Easy to discount. Clear the codes, and jump start using another car. See what codes come back.

Dealing with multiple codes is always a pain as you never really know if there's a separate common fault.

I suspect this is a knackered solenoid. The high refers to voltage being high, so a lack of resistance. I don't think cleaning it will fix this.

If it was just the EGR, I would have thought it would be all cylinders getting the imbalance code. I know it's unlikely, but it sounds like two separate faults. If it ware me, I'd start by replacing the EGR, so what that does, and follow up with changing the injector if the fault remains.

But there's other things it could be, wiring issue, broken rocker arm etc. Dirty injector is more likely though. Hang on you said it was leaking in the OP, was that a hunch, or it's visibly leaking, if so then that should be straight forward diagnosis.

All this talk of slide hammers - used mine today for the first time in a decade easy! 

Vespa scooter, bottom steering tube bearing race. Didn’t have a bearing puller so 3/4 of a big washer and a bolt jerry rigged on the end of the old slidey had it out, still had to use blowtorch though, it were well in.

thanks. I'm tempted to remove/clean the EGR valve myself as seems relatively easy.

leaking/stuck injector was with friends car (same engine)- still not extracted...

Ah, I completely missed the point we we're talking about two different cars. I'm shocked they still can't get it out. Although I bet it's slightly satisfying. You can say to your mate, see it wasn't me being useless.

Always worth starting with the cheap option. Whilst in there, check the resistance on the solenoid. A quick google suggests it should be 20ohms from experience of others (assuming same engine).

I think the garage is mainly just one guy but he has a diesel specialist mate who should have a hydraulic/pneumatic puller? One method i've read about is to chain injector with engine crane and lift front of car off ground whilst hammering it! There's even a sleeve pulling kit (expensive). Yes bittersweet satisfying but i have same engine in my car and feel for my mate- she's been unlucky with cars of late. She'd just like a simple /reliable/ easily maintained car with manual windows etc. 

I'm thinking would be worth trashing my new car about for a while as that can get the fuel economy up? But not until timing belt replacement? (don't think it's been replaced- 121K)

It's finally come out! ...using a big crowbar in the end

apparently the copper seal had thinned causing the leak. high temperatures and mushrooming of the metal near the injection tip had seized it in place (2nd hand explanation- could post a pic?)

injector replaced and reprogrammed,  new seals for other injectors - £620

DON'T USE A CROWBAR

Ouch. I guess by doing all the other injector seals it should be right for a while. I can see how the labour of stubborn injectors can build up quickly. They'll be nervous about breaking something so it takes more time.

wonder who mentioned using a crowbar?

she's happy with price~ 2 days work, new injector, reprogramming etc

here's the offending item..

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Dh3u8cDBbNcJN9Wr6

do you think it needs an oil change- will fuel have mixed with oil?

That's weird that injector, not really sure how that's happened.

I didn't think this was likely on your engine. Could be wrong. On some engines a leaky injector means that fuel can get straight into the rocker cover. Doesn't all the diesel stay external on this engine? If so I wouldn't worry about it.

If the injector was leaking inside the cylinder, most will be burnt off when running, but any dribbling after turning the engine off could end up in the oil if it's left sat long enough. But the amount will be tiny. 

Best to get an oil change, excess fuel will get past the rings, and looking at that injector it's probably been dumping fuel in. 

I've found if you part with the best part of £700 then becomes a new one

seems to be a thing..

https://www.peugeotforums.com/threads/strange-injector-failure-bulging-nozz...

and the high cylinder temps could be due to blocked/stuck closed egr valve...

all the more reason to check my egr unit..

Timing belt had just been replaced so she was happy to go a bit higher.

30,000 psi hydraulic pressure and too much heat or too little cooling. Still... impressive!

jk

Thanks. I happen to have all the things for an oil change on my car, although she keeps on top of servicing (6 months). Will see what garage guy says- seeing him shortly..